1997 a moment of synthesis of the fashion of the 90s and hinge towards the new millennium
There are moments in the history of culture that mark the beginning of a new era. This is the case of 1997 for contemporary fashion. The Palais Galliera, the Paris fashion museum, dedicated to the history of clothing and Haute Couture, hosts until July 16th an exhibition dedicated to this fateful year, a synthesis of the fashion of the 90s and a moment hinged on the new millennium.
1997 is witness to collections, fashion shows, openings and events that redesign the chessboard of fashion and project it towards the 21st century. The exhibition “1997 Fashion Big Bang”, curated by Miren Arzalluz, Alexandre Samson and Sylvie Lécallier, retraces the events that have enlivened this exceptional year.
THE BAGUETTE BAG BY FENDI IS THE NEW IT-BAG
First of all, the iconic collections. Tom Ford, Gucci’s artistic director, amplifies the sensual energy of the creations with G-string. Rei Kawakubo, for Comme des Garçons, deforms bodies with Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body. And Raf Simons redefines the canons of masculine beauty with the Black Palms collection.
Vogue Paris magazine defines the spring-summer 1997 season as the big bang of fashion, in an era of global competition. The phenomenon of globalization speeds up, foreshadowing the years 2000 and 2010. Models change, bodies become androgynous and merge the styles of Western civilization with those of exotic cultures.
1997 marks the entry into Haute Couture of fashion designers from the 80s prêt-à-porter, such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler. A new generation of British creators conquers the historic French maison: Alexander McQueen heads the Givenchy style office and John Galliano that of Christian Dior, in place of Gianfranco Ferré. While young artistic directors emerge: Hedi Slimane, Stella McCartney, Nicolas Ghesquière, Olivier Theyskens.
A year full of events of opposite sign that shape the following decades: from the creation of the Fendi baguette bag, the first it-bag popularized by the international success of Sex and the City, to the opening of the Colette concept-store, heart of the Parisian fashion for 20 years, until the tragic death of Gianni Versace.
An era dominated by a new creative energy, which defines the visual grammar, models and techniques that will dominate the next twenty-five years of fashion, giving it an international and timeless nature, a new formal freedom. Haute Couture is no longer judged for its perfect lines but for the image and the show it generates. A model that today seems entered into crisis, called into question by inclusive movements, ecology and the denunciation of the limits of globalization. Perhaps we are facing a new cultural revolution and we do not know yet.
